Kokstad

Our last breakfast in Durban confirmed a generalised theory that I had been developing since arriving in South Africa. African women appear to love their curves!

Looking around the crowded dining room of The Blue Waters hotel, there were beautiful, large women everywhere. As you all know, I haven’t been my preferred size 10 since I was about ten and from the recent photos I’ve included, you can see, despite plans to the contrary, nothing has changed. Here in this dining room however and in the shopping centres and on the beaches I have felt positively skinny – perhaps I’ll stay here forever, apart from that I don’t feel happier or more attractive because of my comparative slenderness, instead I feel genuine envy.

All around me women are embracing their curves, celebrating them with bright colours and flamboyant patterns, emphasising them with figure hugging lycra and fitted body con dresses. Sashaying confidently and laughing loudly as they help themselves to the self serve, buffet breakfast and greet each other across the busy room – and this is only breakfast time!!

Rob left breakfast quite promptly whereas I lingered. I felt like I was part of an unplanned celebration, everyone seemed to know each other and although there were tables like mine, of observers rather than participants, there was no feeling of exclusion and so much people watching to do – Ellie, I needed you!

There were also babies to talk to and what I miss most, apart from Joe and Elles of course, are babies! At school and at home I’m often surrounded by little people and although there are lots here, many of the little ones cry at my less familiar white face, I haven’t had a baby cuddle since Uganda.😩 As usual I digress.

Back to Kokstad, we left Durban for our three hour journey. We’d talked about many different routes to reach the start of the Garden route at Port Elizabeth but finally decided on the quickest. This involved staying on main roads (you’d be proud Ges), along the coast for about half the time then cutting inland to stay at Kokstad before returning to the coast at East London.

It was another stunning journey, I can’t emphasise enough how amazing the scenery is. We saw endless coastline, rolling hills, steep sided river valleys, towering forests and rugged mountains. We also saw endless amounts of people, walking, trading, lying in the sun and avoided countless animals, cows, sheep, goats and even a small pig – they just stroll nonchalantly in to the road, often followed by their herder. We’re not talking country roads here, this was the N2 all the way, that is Africa’s version of the M4. I am really loving this road trip although, if I could compress all of the beauty into just half an hour, then I would definitely choose this option.

I’ve already explained how we have just been booking each place to stay a couple of nights in advance. At first we would both gaze at our phones for ages, making varied suggestions and discussing their relative merits before Rob would make the decision. We have now honed the process down to a fine art where we add a few crucial filters such as parking, no smoking, WiFi and (recently as we’ve already spent too much) under £50 a night. We have been absolutely delighted with the results, The Old Orchard at Kokstad was particularly delightful.We stayed in our own little, one of about ten, log cabins set around a lake at the foot of mountains. We had our usual walk before playing a little golf – at Rob’s requestand having dinner in their lakeside restaurant – they had gluten free pizza as the proprietors wife was a coeliac – so refreshing to not have to explain.😊

The highlight of our stay was lying in our beds, facing the lake and watching an hour of the best thunderstorm that was caught in the valley. I did video it but as the video doesn’t do it any justice I won’t include it.We really thought about staying a little longer in our lovely, wooden hideaway but had booked our next night in East London so set off early for one of our longest drives so far.😩